Last year, my husband, Chris, and I needed to escape. The Christmas season was over and our grown children had flown back to their homes. We needed a break from the ceaseless gray skies of Pennsylvania’s winter days. We knew we wanted sunshine, and discovered the gem of Palm Coast and the Flagler Beaches—tucked between Jacksonville and Daytona—after a little online research. With miles of free beach access, spectacular ocean views and quaint shops, it sounded like the perfect place to experience a traditional “Old Florida” beach vacation. Just what we needed!
After checking into our suite right on Flagler Beach, we headed out for a long, leisurely beach walk. Our bare feet sank softly into the cinnamon-colored sand. (I later learned the cinnamon color was due to the abundance of crushed coquina shells.) With no high-rises to block our view, six miles of beach stretched endlessly ahead of us. I was amazed by how uncrowded it was, almost as if we had it all to ourselves.
Chris and I reached Flagler Beach Pier, watching a few people cast lines as we walked out to the end. The call of seabirds and the tangy, salt-air breezes and soothing rhythm of rolling waves instantly lulled us into the slow pace of island time.
We had dinner at nearby Hidden Treasure Raw Bar & Grill. Chris and I sat outside, swaying to the tunes of the reggae band. At our server’s suggestion, we ordered an appetizer of deep-fried, spicy Cajun Wild Gator Tail. Chris washed his down with a seasonal draft brew, while I cooled my tongue with sips from their signature Hidden Treasure cocktail, a refreshing blend of pineapple juice, coconut rum, melon and banana liqueurs. For dinner, Chris chose delectable shrimp and grits, Chef Edward’s Florida twist on a southern staple, and I went with a broiled-to-perfection flounder stuffed with succulent lump crab.
The next morning, we rose early to catch the sunrise. From the Java Joint’s oceanside deck, the view was spectacular! We sipped white-chocolate lattes, and admired a flock of pelicans bobbing among the waves as the rising sun lit up lavender clouds in a glowing peach sky.
Feeling energized from the sunshine and fresh air, we rented bikes to ride along a section of the 18-mile-long Flagler Beach to Marineland Trail that ran alongside A1A Scenic Highway. We rolled past picturesque parkland and long expanses of undeveloped coastline, pulling off to explore art galleries, quirky shops and sometimes to simply watch the beautiful sea-foam green waves rolling to shore. We were informed that it was the season for the migration of Right Whales and if we were lucky enough, we just might spot their tails and dorsal fins off in the distance.
After a relaxing lunch at the Funky Pelican, we headed to Bulow Creek Ruins State Park. The sweet songs of warblers and busy woodpeckers filled the air as we hiked through primordial forest and beneath canopies of gnarled live oaks dripping with moss. The path led to the ruins of an early 1800s sugar mill plantation. I felt immersed in antebellum plantation life as we walked amid the towering coquina walls and crumbling foundations of the once-thriving mill and mansion.
We rented a kayak at the park, and paddled off into the park’s grassy coastal marsh. Tree branches swept low over the water, as each bend of the channel revealed more scenic vistas. Abundant birdlife captured our attention: snowy egrets wading, or even dramatically chasing their meal through the shallow water, and a white ibis soaring overhead. The peaceful and playful scene paralleled the peaceful, playful combination of kayaking—a welcome contrast to the grey, snow-buried city.
Chris and I followed our nature excursion with dinner at beachside Golden Lion Cafe. We sat on their upper deck and soaked up gorgeous sunset panoramas and enjoyed the ocean breezes and laid-back Caribbean vibe.
We started with a delicious appetizer of spicy Peel ‘N’ Eat Shrimp. Then Chris ordered a grilled Mahi Mahi BLT sandwich slathered with a wonderful black pepper-garlic aioli. My Fish ‘N’ Chips came with a side of house-made Key Lime Tartar Sauce. (It was so good, we bought a bottle to take home on our way out!) Then, we danced our dinner off right there on the sandy beach, laughing and shaking our groove things like we hadn’t done in years.
Before calling it a night, we took another long beach stroll, this time beneath a diamond-studded black-velvet sky. Hand in hand, we walked slowly. The susurrus of waves serenaded and enveloped us in the serenity of the beach at night. We discussed what a relaxing yet active break it had been, due in no small part to the simple charm of a beach vacation.
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